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Tuner Resources

LM-1 & LMA-3 Installation Tips (For Honda EFI and Camaro Carb Application Notes)

Note: When tuning, it pays to err toward conservatism when you’re approaching the fine line between reliability and power – and avoid detonation at all costs. This is especially true when working with a carburetor’s main circuits or refining ignition curves. It goes without saying that your engine should be in good working order mechanically, that your ignition system is OK and that your carb or EFI system can make it down the track or to/from the dyno shop. In other words, no rod knock or weak valve springs, no high-RPM cutout from a cracked distributor cap or bad wires and no fuel leaks. If you aren’t working from a solid engine foundation, you should be fixing that first.

1. What You’ll Need: The Innovate LM-1 is the central “brain” that captures information from its wideband oxygen (O2) sensor and displays it as air/fuel ratio. Most racers also add the LMA-3 “Aux Box” when they buy their LM-1, allowing them to also capture RPM, vacuum/boost, acceleration g forces, exhaust gas temperature and other user-definable inputs (up to a total of six channels of data including air/fuel). In addition to the parts that come with the kit, you’ll need a length of 3/16” vacuum line (10 feet or so) and a couple of lengths of 18 gauge wire (ideally a different color for each channel) from your local auto parts store. You’ll also need to borrow or buy a laptop for downloading the information from your LM-1 and analyzing it. Depending on whether you’re mounting the kit permanently or not, you may also need a drill bit to run the O2 sensor and some basic hand tools to complete the installation. You will also need to check your existing carburetor’s setup so that you can know which way you need to go after performing your “baseline” measurements. Components that you may be changing out include power valve size(s), accelerator pump cam & accelerator pump squirter nozzles, primary and secondary jet sizes for the main jets as well as any air bleeds (idle and mains/high-speed) and idle feed restrictors (IFRs) if so equipped. As you tune the car, you will likely need to borrow or purchase larger or smaller sizes of these jets & bleeds depending on how close your car is tuned to its ideal power and mixture for varying conditions (track elevation, temperature, etc.)

2. Installation Tips: Installing the Innovate LM-1 unit is simple, thanks to Innovate’s step-by-step instructions. Have your favorite muffler shop weld the O2 sensor fitting a couple of inches behind where the exhaust header pipes merge into the collector, with the sensor between the 10 o’clock and 2 o’clock positions (assuming 12 o’clock is up). Run the wire from the O2 sensor up through a hole in your floorboard or firewall that can accommodate it. Sometimes the shift boot or a wiring grommet in the firewall works OK but be careful not to pinch or crimp the sensor’s cable. While you’re running this wire, you’ll also want to run the necessary wire from the LMA-3 Aux Box’s tach terminal (Channel 1) to your car’s tach wire and run a 3/16” vacuum hose from the Aux Box’s built-in Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor to a source of constant engine vacuum. Be sure to mount the Aux Box near horizontal and calibrate its acceleration sensor according to the instruction manual when you mount it – this will allow you to chart how hard the car pulls through the gears. Run the cable that connects the Aux Box to the LM-1 brain, plug the LM-1 brain’s power wire into the vehicle’s cigarette lighter and follow the LM-1’s O2 setup (“First Time Use” = Chapter 3 in LM-1 manual) as well as checking the LMA-3 sensor calibrations specified in its manual (RPM = Chapter 5, Acceleration / g = Chapter 3). If your car has existing sensors for things like Throttle Position, you can run wires to where those sensors enter into the car’s Engine Control Unit (ECU). A shop manual for the car can provide a map to which wires running into the ECU you want to tap. Do not cut the wires in the car’s ECU to chassis harness – you can strip enough insulation to allow your wires from the LMA-3 channels to attach to the wire.

3. Checking the Gauges: Once you have the hardware installed, you should be able to see your car’s Air/Fuel Ratio on the LM-1 while the car is running. When your laptop is plugged into the LM-1, you can bring up the LogWorks Monitor that allows you to configure your channels as gauges on the interface. In the LogWorks gauge console, the Air/Fuel Ratio will always be the upper left of the six dials, and you can set RPM to be the second dial by clicking on the “Configure” drop-down menu and selecting Input 1, then clicking RPM in the upper left “Aux box or RPM Converter” box. Configure Input 4 as your MAP setting (upper left box of the Configure menu) to capture engine vacuum, which can also show how much “foot” you have in it at the drag strip if you don’t have a throttle position sensor. Configure Input 5 as your Acceleration g meter (again, upper left box of the menu). If you later see that you’re having negative g on acceleration and positive g on braking, you’ll need to Invert the readings of 1g and -1g in the right menu of the Acceleration g’s Configure menu – this is done by clicking the “Load/Edit Table” button in the upper right “User sensor input” box. Throttle Position can also be configured to display readings at this time. Check the Innovate manuals for the LM-1 Wideband boxa nd LMA-3 Aux box for detailed instructions on wiring and configuring the Aux box, and you should be ready to start capturing data.

Go to "Wideband Tuning for Carbureted Drag Racing"

Go to "Wideband EFI Tuning on Honda/AEM Combo"

 

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